Panama: Panama City

From fellow travelers, Panama City has not been a favorite. Yet, I have had a different experience. Although the city is a bit rough around the edges (which city isn't), Panama City has abundant spaces that are unique and filled with people, activities, and food. From our hostel you can walk about 10 minutes and reach the bay. The coast is lined with large pathways for pedestrians and bicyclists. Looking at the water, the left peninsula houses downtown which is filled with large buildings, creating a modern and sleek cityscape. On the opposite peninsula is Casco Viejo which is lined with colonial houses painted with an assortment of colors.

Standing on the pathway looking both ways is a beautiful dichotomy of old and new, modern and antique, with a wonderful public space that connects them. The paths have fountains, jungle gyms, and street vendors offering something for everyone.  And it's used!! Especially in the evening, young and old couples hold hands and watch the sun set, kids rent bikes and roller skates, and tourists sit on the edges of the water taking photos. And it seems Panama City is working at making this space even better. Large billboards show a project in the works to create tennis courts, an amphitheater, more comfortable sitting space, and fountains. Now, unlike Vietnam, where the billboards showing development seem to be filled with broken promises and half completed buildings, this space is being worked on every day.

Hostel: Mamallena ($13) Very clean, filled with gorgeous art, unique colors, nice people, open space, and free pancakes and coffee all day. It's quiet at night and close to markets, parks, and Casco Viejo. They also work out transportation for a boat trip to Colombia. All in all, a very nice place.

Old next to new

Casco Viejo: Much like Panama City itself, Casco Viejo is half deteriorated and half rejuvenated, all with beautiful architecture. Casco Viejo was the original Panama City.

In the past couple years the city has decided to take Casco Viejo under its wing and make it the new destination for coffee houses, restaurants and nightlife. And again, the great thing is, it's actually happening. Walking around you are deterred by signs and people in hard hats which can be infuriating for some but I think watching the progress and restoration is a beautiful thing. I do wonder,  after the houses are rebuilt and property prices go up, where will the people living in the slums be displaced. Yet, from what I saw most buildings being remodeled seemed completely uninhabited. One must have a positive outlook.

Besides the old colonial houses, Casco Viejo has big beautiful churches every couple blocks, small stores selling Kuna and Panamanian goods, chic restaurants, and street art in the alleys. It's a lovely place to sit and read, people watch, or just get lost along the cobblestone sidewalks.

building being appropriated by nature

Almador Causeway: The next peninsula over from Casco Viejo is the Causeway. Made from the excavated land of the Panama Canal, the causeway connects three islands with a two lane road and a footpath. The restaurants are a bit pricey but it's still another beautiful public space where families and couples walk during sunset and go to be seen late at night.

While having pizza, we met two gentlemen who captain a boat for a well to do Puerto Rican builder. They invited us to dinner on the boat which was a lovely new way to see the causeway and take in the beauty of the city. It was also extremely interesting to hear stories of how the top .1% spends their millions through fishing trips, Porsche driving lessons in Georgia for their kids, more boats, and travel. Concepts I thought were jokes or only in movies. It was a very unique and enjoyable experience.